Andaman and Nicobar Islands: The Enchanting Tropical Paradise

I was 7 yrs old when my father got posted to the Andaman and Nicobar Islands and our family moved there and stayed for 2 years! As a child, the whole place felt like a playground to me, as it was back in 1998, when the Islands were secluded and the population was sparse. I loved living in Andaman as it was a beautiful place and it was like a magical land where you could put on your explorer outfit and whichever way you went, you would find something new, exciting, and thrilling.

The lush greenery at every nook and corner, a new ecosystem of many different species, vast scenic beaches, a unique (albeit sad) history, untouched natural forests, and indigenous tribes, everything was amazing and fascinating to me. It felt like we were transported to a different world! It was like living in the jungle and I could be Dora, the explorer. Though it was secluded, the capital city did have most of the modern facilities of those days, so it was a comfortable yet unique experience.

I loved walking on the way from my home to the bus stop, which was surrounded by greenery and ponds. I enjoyed looking at all the butterflies fluttering around on colorful flowers while being careful not to step on the countless little snails creeping on the road. I loved the weather as it would rain at any time of the day and leave gorgeous rainbows in the sky and if it rained heavily, I could skip school!!

Andaman was a land of new discoveries for me. I was amazed to see cashew trees growing wildly along the roads when these are quite expensive on the mainland. One day while waiting for my bus after school, I found some soft rocks in hues of pink, yellow, red, and orange which we used as colored chalk to make rangolis. The sight of a variety of crabs, different shapes and colors of sea shells, jellyfish, starfish, and corals at beaches became quite common, though I would be excited every time I saw them.

I saw countless snakes and centipedes (very poisonous) at my school, near my home, and on the roads while traveling but never heard of any mishaps. Sometimes when we got late while spending time with friends, we would walk back home at night, clapping and singing to scare off any snakes or animals as there weren’t enough street lights back then. Though I would be scared, I also enjoyed clapping and singing while walking back home. Here, I learned that we can peacefully coexist with wildlife if we respect the ecosystem.

I remember spending a full moon night on a beach when the tides were so low that we could walk on the shallow coast and my brother found a beautiful big orange conch shell while the other little kids like me found many colorful smaller shells that we took home with much glee as prized possessions. I loved watching sunsets at beaches on weekends after spending whole afternoons at the beach playing in the sea and making sandcastles. What more could I have asked for as a child than to experience mother nature’s beauty and enjoy every moment?!

We were lucky twice, as my father got posted to Andaman for the second time in 2015.! I was super excited to see the place again, to relive my amazing childhood memories.! Although the place had changed a lot in 15 years, it was still a wonderful magical land. I visited the same beaches that I played at as a child and explored a few more places that were not very accessible earlier. I enjoyed living in Andaman again and I found the place as exciting and fascinating as my first time there.

The Andaman & Nicobar Islands offer a unique experience from the rest of the coastal destinations, as Andaman is not just all pretty beaches but it has preserved its rich natural forests and indigenous tribes and has a historical significance in our freedom struggle. There aren’t enough words to explain the beauty of the Islands, so you should go experience it yourself. Here are some popular places one can visit on their trip to this tropical paradise.

Destinations closer to Port Blair

Ross Island (Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Island)

Ross Island was named after marine surveyor, Daniel Ross. In December 2018, it was renamed Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Island.

The Island was a former British administrative headquarters. Now in ruins, this island offers a unique glimpse into the colonial era. As you explore the remnants of British architecture amidst lush greenery, you’ll be transported back in time.

One can reach Ross Island by taking a ferry from Port Blair which takes about 15 minutes. As you approach the shores of Ross Island, the remnants of British architecture peek through the lush green foliage. As you explore the island, you’ll encounter crumbling ruins that hint at its former grandeur. Stroll through the tranquil pathways enveloped by lush greenery, where deer, rabbits, and peacocks roam freely to reach the beach where you can relax.

As evening descends upon Ross Island, a captivating sound and light show brings history to life. The show narrates the island’s captivating past, recounting the struggles and triumphs of the British era and the impact it had on the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. The mesmerizing visuals, accompanied by a stirring narrative, create an immersive experience that will leave you awestruck.

North Bay

Known for its vibrant coral reefs, crystalline waters, and diverse marine life, North Bay offers an unforgettable experience for snorkelers and nature enthusiasts alike. The Island’s image was used in the older 20 rupees notes (before 2019).

You can take a ferry from Andaman water sports complex to North Bay. North Bay is renowned for its exceptional snorkeling opportunities. As you venture into the clear turquoise waters, a kaleidoscope of colors awaits. Immerse yourself in a world where coral gardens thrive, teeming with an abundance of marine life.

North Bay is blessed with breathtaking coral reefs that are a sight to behold. The vibrant and diverse coral formations create an otherworldly landscape, providing shelter and sustenance to an array of marine species. Admire the intricate shapes, patterns, and vibrant hues of the corals as you glide through the water. Be sure to look out for delicate sea fans, brain corals, and majestic staghorn corals, which add to the allure of the underwater ecosystem. You can opt for Scuba diving, snorkeling, Sea walking or a Glass boat ride at North Bay.

Cellular Jail

Journey back in time to the haunting corridors of Cellular Jail, also known as “Kala Pani,” and immerse yourself in the poignant history of India’s struggle for freedom. Located in Port Blair, the capital of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, Cellular Jail stands as a solemn reminder of the sacrifices made by countless freedom fighters who endured unimaginable hardships.

Built by the British in the late 19th century, Cellular Jail served as a penal colony where political prisoners were sent to suppress the uprising against British colonial rule. The jail’s seven wings were designed to isolate and break the spirits of the incarcerated, earning it the reputation as one of the most notorious prisons in the world.

One of the most compelling ways to experience Cellular Jail’s history is through the poignant Light and Sound Show. As dusk settles, the jail comes alive with an immersive audio-visual narrative that vividly portrays the struggles faced by the freedom fighters. Through a captivating combination of light, sound, and narration, the show transports visitors to a bygone era, evoking a deep sense of empathy and admiration.

Adjacent to the Cellular Jail stands the Martyrs’ Memorial, a solemn tribute to the brave souls who sacrificed their lives for the country’s independence. The memorial features a towering structure with statues depicting the freedom fighters who endured immense hardships in the jail. Cellular Jail, with its painful past and the stories of countless freedom fighters, stands as a stark reminder of the sacrifices made during India’s struggle for independence.

As we explore the corridors and cells, we are confronted with the magnitude of our freedom fighters’ resilience and the strength of the human spirit. Cellular Jail serves as a solemn tribute to those who fought for freedom, urging us to cherish and uphold the values they so valiantly defended. So, visit Cellular Jail, listen to its stories, and let the echoes of sacrifice and resilience inspire you to work towards a better and more just future.

Corbyn’s Cove

Located just a short drive from Port Blair, Corbyn’s Cove is a captivating beach destination that offers a perfect blend of natural beauty, serene ambiance, and breathtaking coastal vistas.

Corbyn’s Cove is renowned for its pristine, palm-fringed beach that exudes serenity and tranquility. As you step onto the soft, powdery sand, let the gentle lapping of the waves and the rhythmic sound of seagulls create a soothing symphony. The beach’s curved shoreline provides ample space for leisurely walks, sunbathing, or simply lounging with a book in hand, offering a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of daily life.

Corbyn’s Cove is renowned for its breathtaking sunset views, creating a captivating backdrop that paints the sky with hues of orange, pink, and gold. As the sun gradually sets over the horizon, casting its warm glow upon the tranquil waters, witness nature’s masterpiece unfold before your eyes. Capture the perfect Instagram-worthy shot or simply sit back, savoring the beauty of the moment as the day gracefully transitions into twilight.

Jolly buoy Island

Jolly Buoy Island is part of the Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park, a protected area dedicated to the conservation of the Andaman’s rich marine ecosystem. The island boasts pristine white sandy beaches, lush mangrove forests, and crystal-clear turquoise waters teeming with vibrant coral reefs and marine life.

Jolly Buoy Island is part of a strictly regulated eco-tourism zone, ensuring the conservation of its delicate marine ecosystem. The island is home to an array of protected marine species, including magnificent and endangered coral reefs. This commitment to preservation allows visitors to witness the remarkable biodiversity firsthand while also contributing to the sustainable tourism practices that help protect these fragile habitats.

For those who prefer to stay dry while still experiencing the underwater marvels, glass-bottom boat excursions are available. Embark on a guided tour aboard a glass-bottom boat, offering a window to the captivating underwater world without getting wet. Marvel at the vibrant coral gardens and observe the fascinating marine life as you glide above the reef, guided by knowledgeable experts who share insights about the marine ecosystem.

Take a stroll along the island’s pristine beaches, feel the soft sand between your toes, and let the soothing sound of the waves wash away your worries. Unwind under the shade of swaying palm trees, breathe in the fresh sea breeze, and savor the tranquility of this idyllic tropical paradise.

Destinations away from Port Blair

Havelock Island

Havelock Island is a tropical paradise that captures the hearts of travelers with its pristine beaches, azure waters, and lush greenery. Renowned for its exquisite beauty and a plethora of activities, Havelock Island offers an idyllic retreat where adventure and tranquility seamlessly blend. The Island has many beaches where you can relax and go for adventure sports.

Prepare to be awe-struck by the sheer beauty of Radhanagar Beach, often hailed as one of Asia’s best beaches. Its pristine, powdery white sands stretch for miles, caressed by the gentle lapping of turquoise waters. Bask in the golden sunlight, take a leisurely stroll along the shore, or simply unwind while enjoying the breathtaking panoramic views. Radhanagar Beach is a haven of tranquility, perfect for sunbathing, beachcombing, and witnessing unforgettable sunsets.

Havelock Island is a paradise for water sports enthusiasts, offering remarkable snorkeling and scuba diving opportunities at Elephant Beach. Hop on a boat and journey through turquoise waters to reach this tropical haven. Dive into the crystal-clear waters to discover vibrant coral reefs teeming with a kaleidoscope of marine life. Swim alongside majestic sea turtles, colorful fish, and if you are lucky, even encounter gentle manta rays and reef sharks. Immerse yourself in the vibrant coral gardens, where schools of exotic fish gracefully dance among the coral formations.

Havelock Island also boasts of lush mangrove forests that provide a captivating backdrop for nature walks and exploration. Stroll through the dense foliage, witnessing the unique ecosystem where land and sea intertwine.

A lesser-known beach is Kalapathar Beach. With its dramatic landscapes, turquoise waters, and untouched beauty, Kala Pathar Beach offers a serene escape for nature lovers and solitude seekers alike. Kala Pathar Beach, named after the distinctive black rocks that dot its shores, is a testament to the untouched beauty of nature. As you set foot on the powdery white sand, you’ll be greeted by the breathtaking panorama of clear blue waters stretching as far as the eye can see. The beach’s tranquil ambiance and secluded location create an atmosphere of serenity and peace, allowing you to unwind and reconnect with nature.

One of the unique aspects of Kalapathar Beach is its relative seclusion compared to other beaches on Havelock Island. The beach has a shorter coastline. It’s off-the-beaten-path location allows you to escape the crowds and enjoy the serenity of a more private beach experience.

While Havelock Island offers thrilling adventures, it also caters to those seeking relaxation and rejuvenation. Unwind at one of the island’s resorts or beachside shacks, where you can savor fresh seafood delicacies and tropical cocktails. You can stay on the island for 2-3 days to visit its various beaches and experience water sports like snorkeling, scuba diving, and sea walking.

Neil Island

With its pristine beaches, lush greenery, and laid-back charm, Neil Island captivates the hearts of those who venture to its shores. From the serene beaches and vibrant coral reefs to the captivating geological formations, every corner of Neil Island invites exploration and discovery.

Located on the eastern side of Neil Island, Bharatpur Beach is renowned for its rich marine biodiversity and stunning coral reefs. Dive into the azure waters and witness the kaleidoscope of colors that lie beneath the surface. Snorkel among vibrant coral formations, swim alongside exotic fish, and marvel at the wonders of the underwater world. Bharatpur Beach is a haven for nature lovers and provides an opportunity to explore the captivating marine life that thrives in these pristine waters.

Nature’s marvel awaits at the Natural Bridge, a unique rock formation carved by the relentless waves and currents over centuries. As you navigate through the rugged coastline, you’ll witness the astonishing sight of a natural rock arch that connects the land to a small islet. Feel the awe-inspiring power of nature and capture the perfect Instagram-worthy moment against this geological wonder.

Both Havelock and Neil Island offer similar experiences. So if you have less time, you can skip any one of the islands. One of the best ways to experience the beauty of Neil Island and Havelock Island is by renting a bicycle or a two-wheeler and exploring at your own pace. Cruise along the palm-fringed roads, passing through lush paddy fields, and discover hidden coves and secluded beaches. Feel the island’s rustic charm as you encounter friendly locals, sample fresh tropical fruits, and immerse yourself in the laid-back island lifestyle.

You can also experience bioluminescence at Havelock and Neil Islands. Bioluminescence is the emission of light by living organisms, such as plankton or bacteria, through a chemical reaction within their bodies. In the case of Andaman’s bioluminescence, it is primarily caused by a type of marine plankton called dinoflagellates. These tiny organisms produce light when disturbed or agitated, creating a mesmerizing glow that illuminates the surrounding waters.

The phenomenon of bioluminescence is more prominent during certain times of the year. The peak season for bioluminescence in the Andaman Islands is usually between December and February when the conditions are ideal. You can watch this at the shore if it’s a new moon day or you may have to venture into the sea on a kayak at night to move away from the lights to witness bioluminescence more clearly. Some of my friends said they couldn’t see much of it, maybe it wasn’t their lucky day!

You will have to take a ferry from Port Blair to reach Havelock and Neil Islands which take about 2-3 hrs one way. There are government and private ferries available. The government ferries need to be booked 2-3 days in advance.

Baratang Island

Tucked away in the captivating Andaman and Nicobar Islands, Baratang Island is a pristine paradise waiting to be discovered. With its lush mangrove forests, fascinating limestone caves, and vibrant wildlife, Baratang Island offers a unique experience for nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers. Baratang Island is situated in the heart of the Middle and South Andaman Islands and is linked to Port Blair via a road. The distance between these two locations is ~101 km, and the travel time can range from 3-4 hours depending on the chosen mode of transportation.

The journey to Baratang Island is a beautiful one through the Jarawa Reserve forests. All the vehicles going to the middle and north Andamans have to get clearance at the Jirkatang checkpost. Clearance for vehicles from Jirkatang to Middle Strait is given at 7.30 am, 11 am, and 2 pm (timings changed post Covid). Two-Wheelers are not allowed past the check post so tourists will have to travel via a cab or bus.

Carry your IDs for clearance. It takes about 1-1.5 hrs to reach the checkpost from Port Blair (42 km), so starting early at 5 am will get you to the checkpost on time for the first entry which will give you ample time to visit the Limestone caves.

A maximum of 90 vehicles are allowed in one convoy. So if you want to catch the first convoy, you will have to be here well before time. The last convoy from the Middle Strait back to Jirkatang would be at 2.30 pm (these timings might change, check before planning the trip). Hence, you can plan your trip accordingly. There are food and refreshment stalls available at the Jirkatang checkpost, where tourists can have breakfast and take some munchies along.

After clearance, all the vehicles drive in a single line through the forest, with police vans at the beginning and end of the convoy. Overtaking or stopping and getting down at any point inside the jungle is not allowed. You will not be allowed to open your windows and handing out any food to the tribals living inside the jungle is strictly prohibited.

The journey through the thick forests on either side of the road is just amazing where you can enjoy the sunrays shining through the gaps of the thick canopies of the trees at places. You may sight some tribals in the jungles collecting forest food or walking through the forest in groups.

The Jarawa tribes have been living in the Andaman Islands for thousands of years, maintaining their unique traditions and connection with the land. They have traditionally relied on hunting, gathering, and fishing for sustenance. The Jarawa tribes have faced various challenges and have been the subject of significant attention and efforts for their protection and preservation. In recent years, there have been efforts to respect their isolation and promote sustainable development while preserving their cultural heritage. The other tribes of the Andaman & Nicobar Islands are the Great Andamanese, Onges, Sentianlese, and Shompens.

The journey through the forest takes 1-1.5 hrs (~45km) and is an experience in itself. You will finally feel like you are indeed in the Andamans, known for its dense forest cover and protected tribal population. We had to stop our vehicle for a few minutes in the forest as there was a giant green snake crossing the road in front of the vehicle before ours. We did get a peek at the gorgeous snake from inside our vehicle (remember you cannot open your windows) as it was slowly slithering away. You are also not allowed to take pictures in the forest. So, just take in all the beauty with your eyes and lock them in your memories.!

After you reach the Middle Strait jetty, you have to take a ferry to Baratang Jetty which takes about 15 mins. There are three tourist attractions in Baratang, the Limestone Caves, Mud Volcano, and Parrot Island. We could only visit the Limestone caves which is the main attraction and it took almost all our time in Baratang.

From the Baratang jetty, a small boat takes you to the Limestone Caves jetty. It takes about 40 mins to reach there and you can see the mangroves appearing as you approach the jetty. The boat meanders through these mangrove forests which feels simply surreal.

After you get down here, you will have to take a trek of ~2 km to reach the Limestone Caves. Yes, it is a lot of effort to reach this place but it provides a completely different experience than all the beaches you would visit in the Andamans. The trek is enjoyable too as you walk through green paddy fields and tall bamboo trees. You can take a tour guide to take you to the caves.

The limestone caves of Baratang Island are a testament to the incredible forces of nature that have shaped the region over millions of years. These caves are formed through the process of erosion, as the continuous action of water and other natural elements slowly dissolves the limestone rock, creating intricate formations within the caves’ chambers.

As you step inside the caves, you’ll be greeted by a cool and damp environment. The dimly lit passages lead you deeper into a mesmerizing world of stalactites, stalagmites, and other calcite formations that adorn the cave walls. The tour guide will occasionally point to formations inside the cave in the shape of a lotus or elephant. You can explore the formations yourself and put your imagination to work.

The caves are not very deep and they are narrow. There’s no lighting inside the caves and your phone’s torchlight can come in handy here to observe the caves. The ethereal beauty of the caves creates an enchanting ambiance, leaving visitors in awe of the forces that shaped these geological wonders.

You have to take the same way back you came, to reach the Baratang Jetty. You can stop on your return trek at stalls to have some lemon juice or snacks. After relaxing for a bit, you have to take the boat ride back to the Baratang jetty. You can choose to visit the mud volcano (8km via a cab/jeep) or Parrot Island (30km via boat) if you have time (which you might not, considering the changes in convoy timings).

You can have lunch at local hotels at the middle strait jetty (don’t expect anything fancy). The last convoy leaves around 2.30 pm from Middle Strait jetty. There aren’t many stay options in Baratang, so it’s better to plan this as a day trip.

Though visiting Baratang Island is an amazing experience, there are controversies around the Andaman trunk road which passes through the forest inhabited by the Jarawa tribe. Conservationists say that tourism has led to contact of the outside world with the Jarawas, whose population is dwindling. The Jarawas have contracted outside world diseases like mumps and measles that the Jarawas have no immunity to. Tourists also throw processed foods like bread and chips at the tribes which maybe not be suitable for them.

For the Indian government, this is a huge conundrum as there are settlements at Diglipur and Rangat which are to the north of Jarawa Reserve forest. The Andaman Trunk Road is the only connection between these and the capital city, Port Blair. Diglipur is also the largest agricultural area in Andaman and the locally produced food reaches the settlements to the south only through the trunk road.

So if you are visiting Limestone caves, please adhere to the guidelines provided and avoid any contact with the tribes.

Other places worth visiting (if you have time)

• Wandoor – You can check out Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park at Wandoor
• Red Skin Island – Ideal spot for a tranquil picnic or a peaceful retreat
• Chidiya Tapu – also known as the Bird Island because of its rich biodiversity of avian species
• Viper Island – Used as a prison island by Britishers before Cellular Jail
• Mount Harriet (renamed Mount Manipur)- Third-highest peak in the Andaman and Nicobar
• Gandhi Park – Idyllic garden with water sports
• Samudrika Museum – You can take home some souvenirs from here
• Nariyal Bagicha – A serene beach with coconut trees lining the coast

Tips

• The best time to visit would be between October to February. It can rain anytime in Andaman as it’s a tropical island but these months are relatively dry.
• Before visiting places, check the timings and any off days. Boat rides to some islands will have to be booked in advance.
• The tropical climate can be hot and humid, so it’s important to stay hydrated. Carry a reusable water bottle and drink plenty of fluids throughout the day. Also, carry insect repellants.
• Carry valid identification documents for checkpost clearances.

Check out my blogs on trips to Meghalaya and Kodaikanal for detailed guides.